Seattle

[gregc]

A couple pics from Seattle. Sure does like to rain over there. Made quite a few suspension adjustments to see what does what.

Best time was a 9.701 (on a 9.70 dial) with a 1.36 60'. Pump gas, full exhaust, and slicks. Had a hard time getting the radials working and not enough passes to figure em out. Lost 2nd round due to the car killing over on the starting line. Going to have to re-think my staging procedures.

First pic is initial hit with the light just turning green. Second picture is a car length out.

[Hilly]

Those don't look like drag radials ....

Maybe not enough air pressure in the tires, it might be hooking to much. A little bit of tire spin is ok. It's planting the tires well enough.

Yah, I've been watching the weather lately. We should be sweating our azzes off by now.

[gregc]

Haha... yeah, I ended up switching to the slicks for eliminations. The tires look like they need 1-1.5 psi more air.

[Hilly]

1 - 1.5 ??? uhh maybe more than that

[gregc]

Yeah, I'm thinking so too. We'll see. It is amazing how much even a 1/4lbs difference will make.

[Hilly]

Yah, 1lb is a big diffence to me. I use 12psi, if they're at 11 then the azz walks around down track.

[trbo355]

Hey greg, can you lower the ladder bar position at the front? My chevelle doesnt have the power that your car does but it did the same thing because of too agressive of a hit due to suspension geometry. It would drive over the tires like that and adding tire pressure made the hook go away even though the video looked like thats what it needed.

[gregc]

I can't go any lower. I've done lots of playing with this lately and the position of the ladder bar does affect the hit of the tire, but more-so it is better stated as anti-squat. The higher the ladder bar position, the more anti-squat the car has. That is, the more the ass "falls" out of the car and the less it lifts the front end.

Here it is with the ladder bar in the top hole. http://thumbs.vidiac.com/257d813f-83f2-45fe-9b40-994a00bc2a90.jpg (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/257d813f-83f2-45fe-9b40-994a00bc2a90.htm)Click here to see Video (http://videos.streetfire.net/video/257d813f-83f2-45fe-9b40-994a00bc2a90.htm)

Notice the body seperation. Way too much energy spent in moving the suspension there.

Now, with the ladder bars in the bottom holes, the rear suspension doesn't move much at all. I think most of my problem in the video in this post is the air pressure. I can also fine tune it some more with my shocks to take a little more initial hit out of it as well. Probably a combination of a little more air pressure and a little stiffer shock setting would do it.

Another problem I have now is that front end coming up. I like the rear end movement with the ladder bars in the bottom hole, but now I need to get some front end limiters installed. I have the nut there, just need some rubber stubs. I also should check out that front steering wobble. I can't feel it but damn it looks nasty!

[Hilly]

If the rear squats the front is going to lift. If you limit the front end it will limit the squat I think.

[gregc]

Sorta. The rear-end motion happens before the front end motion. When you release the brake and the tires react with the pavement, the rearend suspension starts doing it's thing. The closer the ladderbar attachment point is to the center of gravity, the more the rear is going to want to pivot out of the car. The further from the center of gravity, the less it trys to pivot out and the more it trys to lift the front. If you limit the front end's movement, it should cause the rear to plant a bit harder. Don't confuse squat with hit/plant. Squat isn't good, for my case anyways.

Here is a picture with a ton of "anti-squat" but still has the front end in the air.

[talntid]

You just need AWD :)

[gregc]

Yes, I'm sure the center diff would react well with the front wheels off the ground. Been there, done that. :)