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View Full Version : Repairing the rust on your honda


11secrex1161
12-22-2007, 12:54 AM
Well i have talked to a few people who wanted more information on how to do this so i will just post it here. Im sure that somebody here could use this information.

I got the repair patch panels from ebay for $110 for both sides however i think the seller got them from http://www.rustrepair.com so you might look there.

things you will need to do it properly

MIG welder (with stargon gas)
Air compressor
Air cut off tool
.22 gauge sheet metal (not galvanized)
Some clamps for holding the metal in place while welding
A flange tool with a punch or you can just use a drill but takes longer
misc tools that are common sense

To start with match up the new panel to the body and figure out where you want to mount it. then you need to trim it down a little because it reaches a little high and too close to the window. so on the passenger side (which is the easy one to do because of no gas tank lid) just basically cut the pattern out and then begin taking the sheet metal you got (home depot has it $6) and cut out 3 inch wide and however long you need to cover the cut line. you will have to angle cut the pieces to make them fit without a huge gap on each connection.

then take your punch tool or drill and punch holes about 3 inches apart along the cut line on the body. match up your sheet metal that you just cut and get it all straight and then clamp the piece to the body and tack weld through the hole you drilled. you want the 3 inch wide sheet metal evenly on both sides so 1 1/2" on the inside of the body panel and the same on the outside. just look at the pics to see what i mean. all your doing to creating a backing to mount the patch panel to so that you can weld to it, and have a backing for body filler.

once you have your strips of metal all tacked up and gap free, you can add another piece behind any gaps to create a backing for the backing. just punch some holes in your strips and tack it up. look at the pictures and it really is self explained. as for the driver side its the same thing except that you have to cut the patch panel around the gas lid and still leave room for the sheet metal backing. just take tons of time measuring and checking clearances. it took me about 6 hours for my first side. Im not a body work guy, this is the first time i have ever done this so you may get better advice somewhere else. I did about 3 months of research before this and i talked to tons of body work guys. some said to glue it, but only if your selling the car after. what the majority said was that you have to weld it and you have to create a lip that you can tack the panels onto, so that you don't end up with a raised surface.

I'm not completely done but the part that requires any explanation is so i figured that i would start the post. I should be finished with both sides by tomorrow night. and the body filler will be done hopefully by next week, so i will add more pictures as i go. anyone with body work experience please feel free to add to this, the method i have used has really worked well and i am confident that it will turn out great, if not good thing my best friend does body work. but there are many other techniques to do this, this is just the one i chose and I am very happy that i did.


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Silver R/T
12-22-2007, 10:21 AM
that's good way to do it. Make sure you seam seal every seam to keep the moisture out. Should post this in auto body section.

BOOGEYMAN
12-22-2007, 11:32 AM
It would have been much easier, cleaner and quicker to just replace the whole quarter! Drill the old one off and glue the new one on...only welding would have been across the sail panel at the back. Also cuts your rust prevention done to almost nothing. This is how we do it at work and the glue is guarenteed for life!

Have you ever used a step flanger? On the existing quarter you cut you just flange that edge and lay the new piece in, it lays in flush and weld away. No need for the srtips of metal you put on for a backing that way.

Eithor way it looks like you have it handled, if you have an questions contact me or marty. :)

Travis

Silver R/T
12-22-2007, 12:40 PM
I would've just cut up to the red line on top, flange it there, drill out spot welds everywhere else and take it all off.

11secrex1161
12-22-2007, 01:11 PM
well i did try a step flange and i payed $140 for it and it didn't make a big enough step in the body, the patch panel was still too big and it had a big lip. thanks for the tips tho. I did think about the glue but i heard more bad than good. as for the cutting where you showed the red line, that would have been great but the new panels were not that big so i couldn't reach that far and the rust was only on the actual lip of the wheel well, but yeah that would have been the best way. Anyway thanks for the offer on advice if i need it, i will let you all know if if do. and when it is done i will post the results.

BOOGEYMAN
12-22-2007, 02:32 PM
well i did try a step flange and i payed $140 for it and it didn't make a big enough step in the body, the patch panel was still too big and it had a big lip. thanks for the tips tho. I did think about the glue but i heard more bad than good. as for the cutting where you showed the red line, that would have been great but the new panels were not that big so i couldn't reach that far and the rust was only on the actual lip of the wheel well, but yeah that would have been the best way. Anyway thanks for the offer on advice if i need it, i will let you all know if if do. and when it is done i will post the results.


Hmm eithor you bought a phucked up flanger or you may have been using it wrong, not sure. I would like to know who told you the glue was a bad idea...??? Maybe they were thinking elmers glue, LOL. We glue quarters on $100,000 cars at work and guarentee it for life and have NEVER had one come back because the glue failed!! just so you know

Silver R/T
12-22-2007, 03:02 PM
especially there's no way you can warp a panel with glueing the panel on. That glue is very strong, we've used it and it works great. Make sure to take your time welding it, don't overheat it

11secrex1161
12-22-2007, 11:08 PM
well that is nice to know that the glue does work, im not sure who told me not top use it but it was a body shop here in town, then i had other people agree. anyway sounds like i was wrong. The flange tool i got just didn't have a big enough lip in it so that is why it didn't work out. im happy im welding it tho its turning out really good. i pulled off the driver side and got going on the rust and it turned out alot worse than i thought, there are 3 spots on the inner fender well that were rusted through. i have spent all day fabbing new molded metal to go over it, i cut out the rust completely and patched it up. i am lucky tho because im doing all this inside of a metal shop that has an English wheel and other really cool metal fab tools, it has been alot of fun doing this and really easy. i will show before and after of the inner fender well to show how bad the rust was. I am not going to stop till i have every little spec of rust removed, its really not all that bad just will take some time to get off. Im just cutting any rust out so that i can stop it %100 and the car will never see a rainy day from now on, i have a daily driver so im keeping this in the garage on thos days. im using primer and sealer on everything and to top it off im bed liner spraying everything on the inside. thanks for all the tips and support, one last thing tho, i have someone who said they would help me bondo or fill the seam, how much would somebody here be willing to do it for if he falls through$¿ i just want it done right. should i use bodo or what else is better? thanks again

Silver R/T
12-23-2007, 12:30 PM
you use seam sealer in the seams NOT the bondo. Bondo absorbs the moisture so you see it doesn't make great seam sealer.

11secrex1161
12-27-2007, 03:32 AM
well i finished all the body work tonight except the filler for the seams and imperfections from grinding. it look really good in person the camera is not that great because its actually a video camera. anyway its nice and lined up and its flat with the original body surface. Im really proud of myself for this being my first time. well my buddy is coming over in the next couple days to do the finishing work so i will post that last picture but thanks to all the guys that gave me advice it gave me the confidence to do this. thanks again.

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11secrex1161
12-27-2007, 03:33 AM
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