Cobra

[Silver R/T]

Well I'm bored so I thought I'd post some pics of my Cobra. First pic is when I got it, then some bodywork/paint and as you can see it has improved the looks of it.

[jzcobra]

Damn that is a sick car! I love the looks of the sn95 cobras.

[twotons]

looks god maz, have you driven it much since we did the rack?????

[Silver R/T]

Ya Ive driven it around to work, track, local Charger car show. I need to look at it this spring, as it backfires until it warms up...maybe timing needs to be adjusted.

[STEELHORSE1]

it probly not timming, that car needs some wiring cleaned up first. need to 86 the ABS system, manualy wire fan w/thermostat, does it shift any better now? it most likly pops due to a vac. leak or since the timming is locked @ 26 deg. or so, its open/closed loop issue......trying to add fuel when its cold but cant adjust the timming to burn it. cant remember if that car has a btm on it or not but, it needs one then it would have more drivability. yeah it does look cool all one color. when did u go to the track? did u run it?

[Silver R/T]

Ya I need someone to work out bugs out of it so its more streetable. It shifts better with new clutch quadrant now I think, grabs 2nd gear and goes a bit sideways. I think I'll change trans fluid in the spring and see it that helps a bit more with shifting. I only managed a 13.3 pass at 110.

[NIevo]

Nice looking stang, not sure if Im a huge fan of the big hood bulge though.

[STEELHORSE1]

Nice looking stang, not sure if Im a huge fan of the big hood bulge though.

your just jellous cuz they dont make em for evo's!!!! lol i think its bitchn' its kind of like big wings on imports, but domestics back it up!!!

what was the 60 foot time? that car did 11's no sweat with et streets.

[NIevo]

your just jellous cuz they dont make em for evo's!!!! lol i think its bitchn'

what was the 60 foot time? that car did 11's no sweat with et streets.

Lol...no, our wing makes up for the lack of hood scoop.

[Silver R/T]

ya i like the hood also, especially after I painted it. 60ft sucked as I havent prepped it at all and just went for it for my first time in it and it just was spinning first 2 gears. There is a timing retard control installed, not sure if it's working or not. Someone with more electrical knowledge than me has to look at it.

[STEELHORSE1]

Lol...no, our wing makes up for the lack of hood scoop.

thats funny i was thinking somthing like that when i edited! haha
that time your 10.61 beat my 10.52 ..........

[Silver R/T]

Im also getting tubular control arms in the spring for better launch

[STEELHORSE1]

front or rear

[Silver R/T]

rear, 1979-2004 Mustang Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms in Red at Blue Oval Industries for your Ford Mustang @ Blue Oval Industries (http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=614)
I've already talked to Jetblack and we might help each other on installing a set in each others Mustangs. Have to wait till spring time.
I was thinking about tubular K member also but heard bad things about them as when driving on the street, they seem not to be very durable.

[jzcobra]

rear, 1979-2004 Mustang Rear Upper & Lower Control Arms in Red at Blue Oval Industries for your Ford Mustang @ Blue Oval Industries (http://www.blueovalindustries.com/products.php?pid=614)
I've already talked to Jetblack and we might help each other on installing a set in each others Mustangs. Have to wait till spring time.
I was thinking about tubular K member also but heard bad things about them as when driving on the street, they seem not to be very durable.

I was in the same boat about whether or not to get a tubular k member, but decided against it for safety reasons. I would have gone with an MM piece if i did though.

I don't know if i would get no name control arms, just because you have no idea what the quality will be like. Its a toss up b/t MM and UPR for me; haven't decided yet, but will once the snow melts and i can drive the car down to the shop.

Also go with adjustable upper arms so you can set the pinion angle as well.

[Silver R/T]

I was in the same boat about whether or not to get a tubular k member, but decided against it for safety reasons. I would have gone with an MM piece if i did though.

I don't know if i would get no name control arms, just because you have no idea what the quality will be like. Its a toss up b/t MM and UPR for me; haven't decided yet, but will once the snow melts and i can drive the car down to the shop.

Also go with adjustable upper arms so you can set the pinion angle as well.

I was looking at those, for some reason they raised price. They were like $139 or so. Id rather go with nice set of roush stage 3 that I can find on ebay. As long as the welds are good quality there's no reason to pay more $$ for name brand vs no name brand control arms.

[twotons]

Maz, the timing retard is working, even with the timing locked at 26 degrees, i had the retard set at 1 degree per pound of boost. it does start a little better witht he timing in computer control but under boost the car was a little flacky! which is why the car has locked out timing now. That car would run in the high tens easy if traction and shifting is in good shape, just order a set of 27x11.5x17 and put them on your 17 inch Cobra wheels or find a spare set.

that motor couls use a tare down and freshen it up with some rings and maybe bearings as it does have some blow bye when it runs worm, you mught even check your PVC to see if it is working properly.

On the tubular k member, i would use the AJS kit, it seemed to be solid as hell when i put it on Roy's (now Steelehorses) 89 notchback.

[Silver R/T]

Maz, the timing retard is working, even with the timing locked at 26 degrees, i had the retard set at 1 degree per pound of boost. it does start a little better witht he timing in computer control but under boost the car was a little flacky! which is why the car has locked out timing now. That car would run in the high tens easy if traction and shifting is in good shape, just order a set of 27x11.5x17 and put them on your 17 inch Cobra wheels or find a spare set.

that motor couls use a tare down and freshen it up with some rings and maybe bearings as it does have some blow bye when it runs worm, you mught even check your PVC to see if it is working properly.

On the tubular k member, i would use the AJS kit, it seemed to be solid as hell when i put it on Roy's (now Steelehorses) 89 notchback.

Could I run timing retard at 3 degrees then until its warmed up then? As far as I know there's no PCV system on it right now but I could be wrong. As well as rebuild I was thinking about building a 351 but that's a long time goal right now. Appreciate your advice.

Max

[STEELHORSE1]

Could I run timing retard at 3 degrees then until its warmed up then? As far as I know there's no PCV system on it right now but I could be wrong. As well as rebuild I was thinking about building a 351 but that's a long time goal right now. Appreciate your advice.

Max with 351 ud' need bracket mod for s/c. just stroke a 302! 347 with h-beams and a nice steel crank, it would be a simple swap vs. re-vamping everything. ive seen some 347's put down some awsome numbers, like 390hp=n/a all motor. thats what i want to do to my red car,but we'll see. blue oval stuff is kind of tacky, ugly welds,shity cuts, weld splatter. k-member id pass on, tubular lowers and coilovers on the front, non-adjustables on rear all four. stock pinion angle works awsome. i cut 1.51-60's all day long on a 26x8 slick with non-adjustables. they just complicate the whole thing,in my opinion. cold start you need more timming not less|!!!!!

[LITLREX]

WOW..... i was getting 127 mph at srp out of that cobra when i brought it up from Reno! i think i had the timing at 32 total, pump gas with a little toulene it looks good glad to see its being taken care of any ? about it let me know i bought it off the original owner who i knew and did all the mods.

[LITLREX]

for some reason the timing retard was not accurate but i cant remember if was pulling more timing than it said or less!

[twotons]

the timing is pulling correctly now, it was pulling way to much before Stetson, the timing locked at 26 and puling les then 1/2 degree per pound is where mike and i ran it last. thye tranny was being a pile the last time we took it out and it ran 12.00 flat and a high 11 for mike at like 130 or 132 i believe. the car has a shit load of power for a tinny 306

[LITLREX]

a built aod or c4 tranny depending on use, with a fresh dart blocked 331 stroker would fit nicely! i have a bag of stuff for the nos plate setup if the owner wants it i just dug it out of a box a couple weeks ago!

[twotons]

nitrous has been of theat car for a while now. I was eliminating potential leaks, being that it was not hooked up before. I believe it only had the plate on it.

[STEELHORSE1]

a built aod or c4 tranny depending on use, with a fresh dart blocked 331 stroker would fit nicely! i have a bag of stuff for the nos plate setup if the owner wants it i just dug it out of a box a couple weeks ago!
WHAT STUFF IS IT? what engine mods were done to that again.

[TurboNuts]

with 351 ud' need bracket mod for s/c. just stroke a 302! 347 with h-beams and a nice steel crank, it would be a simple swap vs. re-vamping everything. ive seen some 347's put down some awsome numbers, like 390hp=n/a all motor. thats what i want to do to my red car,but we'll see. blue oval stuff is kind of tacky, ugly welds,shity cuts, weld splatter. k-member id pass on, tubular lowers and coilovers on the front, non-adjustables on rear all four. stock pinion angle works awsome. i cut 1.51-60's all day long on a 26x8 slick with non-adjustables. they just complicate the whole thing,in my opinion. cold start you need more timming not less|!!!!!

Shit with the right combo you can make 480-490 wheel horse power on a sbf!! We did with less than 1k under the hood....Ford econoline short block(302),E7te truck heads with port work,ford motorsport b cam,china re-pop typhoon intake,19lbs injectors,bbk regulator,underdrives,and of course a small shot of nos 150...Runs to seattle and back,car shows,daily driven!!
All stock rods,pistons,bolts,ect..Gotta love those sbf's

[ntrcptr90]

just don't love the blocks!!! Unless you like the two piece block.

[Silver R/T]

lots of good suggestions. It's just that we're not sure if the track will be open next season. So there's no reason for me to invest lots of $$ into it right now. Well maybe Granatelli upper/lower c-arms

[STEELHORSE1]

im just kickn back waiting to see what happens, most likely ill be driving to seattle.

[STEELHORSE1]

just don't love the blocks!!! Unless you like the two piece block.
i got only one word for that------detination------

[Jetblack]

just don't love the blocks!!! Unless you like the two piece block.

And you can trade for a two piece block with just a simple tune. :D

rear, I've already talked to Jetblack and we might help each other on installing a set in each others Mustangs. Have to wait till spring time.

I'm there.

I saw a pic of Ford's four link and it looks easier than mine b/c the upper arms are mounted out on the axle part instead of above the pumpkin, like the s197's.

I also have a bent panhard bar so that will get swapped out in the spring too. Also I am drooling over the aluminum driveshaft, in an "as long as I'm under there" sorta thing.

[Silver R/T]

I was checking out aluminum d/shafts but read about them not being balanced right sometimes and sometimes twisting??? I'd get d/shaft loop as well.

[Jetblack]

I was checking out aluminum d/shafts but read about them not being balanced right sometimes and sometimes twisting??? I'd get d/shaft loop as well.

Oh hell yes. DS loops are a good idea anyway but once you start messing around with your DS, it's a good idea to be safe :beer:

[STEELHORSE1]

And you can trade for a two piece block with just a simple tune. :D



I'm there.

I saw a pic of Ford's four link and it looks easier than mine b/c the upper arms are mounted out on the axle part instead of above the pumpkin, like the s197's.

I also have a bent panhard bar so that will get swapped out in the spring too. Also I am drooling over the aluminum driveshaft, in an "as long as I'm under there" sorta thing.

I was checking out aluminum d/shafts but read about them not being balanced right sometimes and sometimes twisting??? I'd get d/shaft loop as well.

where the hell do you get this info? i coul install all rear arms in the sn197 in about ten min. 15 min, in the sn95 they r cake. the aluminum driveshafts i have are the smoothest running ever(fms) 1.50 60' still running true. dont sike yourselves out with this stuff it a walk in the park|!|!!

[ntrcptr90]

Oh you could not do it in 10 min. You'd have to pull the car in, rack it, do the job, pull it off the rack, torque them and pull it out. It'd take at least 18-20 min.

[STEELHORSE1]

Oh you could not do it in 10 min. You'd have to pull the car in, rack it, do the job, pull it off the rack, torque them and pull it out. It'd take at least 18-20 min.

sorry i stand corrected, but dont they make it seem like a major undertaking?

[Silver R/T]

Found these lca's by Steeda
ALUMINUM
upper $229.95
lower $265.95

STEEL
upper $199.95
lower $149.95

GENUINE STEEDA. Free shipping in the lower 48 states.
Not sure if I'd want to spend $500+ on those.

[STEELHORSE1]

Found these lca's by Steeda
ALUMINUM
upper $229.95
lower $265.95

STEEL
upper $199.95
lower $149.95

GENUINE STEEDA. Free shipping in the lower 48 states.
Not sure if I'd want to spend $500+ on those.

my dads 79 has those/ those have adjustable spring hight dont they, i have granitelli m/s w/sperical joints, just buy lowers for now and box the uppers.

[jzcobra]

Here's the ones I will most likely be going with:

http://www.uprproducts.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=225

Except i will go with the adjustable uppers so i can set the pinion angle. So far i have good experiences with upr. Those steeda's would be a good choice, but sure are pricey.

[jzcobra]

my dads 79 has those/ those have adjustable spring hight dont they, i have granitelli m/s w/sperical joints, just buy lowers for now and box the uppers.

The adjustable spring perch ones are about 400 for the lowers without the spherical bushings.

[STEELHORSE1]

stock pinion angle is just fine, adjustables complicate things, when the bottom line is u wind back up at stock pinion angle (been there done that).

[jzcobra]

stock pinion angle is just fine, adjustables complicate things, when the bottom line is u wind back up at stock pinion angle (been there done that).

Yes, but my car is lowered so im sure its not where its supposed to be.

[STEELHORSE1]

Yes, but my car is lowered so im sure its not where its supposed to be.
measure it ull be surprised, not tryn to talk u out of them but i vote no.

[jzcobra]

measure it ull be surprised, not tryn to talk u out of them but i vote no.

I'm not dead set on them. I'll measure the angle sometime when the weather's good enough to bring the car down to shop. Be nice to save some money going with non adjustables.

[Jetblack]

The s197 has the fuel tank mounted over the bolt for the upper control arm, I believe. Everyone says it's a lot easier to lower the tank and inch or so to get at it. The rest of the hardware is attached under the rear seat so you might not want to run it up a lift until you have removed the seat (one clippy thing) and removed the nuts.

Seems like more than 10-20 minutes and of course, I dont' have a lift, in my garage. Although, the ceiling in my garage is about 11-12 feet so.... :)

[STEELHORSE1]

do u have the arms yet?

[Jetblack]

Me? Yes. Lowers were easy and are in and cut my wheel hop by about 2/3. I am hoping the very stiff upper will finish the job. If not, I am considering a different setup entirely.