Motor questions.

[2bad]

NO need for thread anymore

[BlackMagic]

I ran 13.50's with a B16 with only a header, intake, and exhaust. There are some very simple, cheap mods you can do to get that car into the 13 sec range.

[a1320honda]

Bolt on some good quality parts, like Reid stated. A good header, 2.5" exhaust with a good muffler, a good high flowing cleanable intake, id look into a Skunk2 intake manifold, some GSR or CTR cams. Hopefuly you got the B16 tranny. Maybe a chipped ECU and play with the vtec engagemant point and some launch control, and some decent tires......and when the track opens, practice practice practice. And you should have no problems goin mid to almost low 13's. And any unnecessary weight is gonna help considerably. I got my single cam all motor 1.5L vtec hatch to a low 14.

[MrVtec11]

id say get rid of the b16 like just put it outside somewhere... and let me know where... lol jkjk 13's are easily obtainable with the b16...

[GetawayInMoscow]

Bolt on some good quality parts, like Reid stated. A good header, 2.5" exhaust with a good muffler, a good high flowing cleanable intake, id look into a Skunk2 intake manifold, some GSR or CTR cams. Hopefuly you got the B16 tranny. Maybe a chipped ECU and play with the vtec engagemant point and some launch control, and some decent tires......and when the track opens, practice practice practice. And you should have no problems goin mid to almost low 13's. And any unnecessary weight is gonna help considerably. I got my single cam all motor 1.5L vtec hatch to a low 14.

Actually there is no better intake manifold for the B16 than the stock B16 intake, unless you are running some crazy compression or FI.

If it were me, here is what I would do:

BPi velocity stack and a short ram intake
Mugen head gasket
CTR or 2000-2001 USDM ITR cams
Toda header (nobody makes a better header for the B16)
2.5" or no exhaust
Tune

[GetawayInMoscow]

If you could run higher compression (CTR pistons), I would say go for some JUN3 cams.

The B16 just can't move enough air all motor to be quick.

[GetawayInMoscow]

Oh yeah, high 12's is TOTALLY doable on slicks, people do it all the time, you just need to get the weight down, the B16 hates extra weight.

[Ninja_Bear]

2jzgtte...

[jrhaile]

2jzgtte...


http://www.truckinohio.net/filedump/mike/2jz%20swap%20with%20nos.jpg

[GTIKyle]

^^ Iz dat sum NAWZZZ?

[jrhaile]

^^ Iz dat sum NAWZZZ?

Wit 2 Jay-Zs yo

[Ryfly05]

BAHAHA! Classic. I thought about photoshopping my own one of those, but I dont have the time desire and most importantly skill, to do even simple things in photoshop.

[Ninja_Bear]

http://www.truckinohio.net/filedump/mike/2jz%20swap%20with%20nos.jpg

God damn it. Next person that posts that stupid pic on here again is getting mushroom-stamped in the retina.

[jrhaile]

God damn it. Next person that posts that stupid pic on here again is getting mushroom-stamped in the retina.

ROFL.........

[GTIKyle]

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b23/xcannibalx/shinanigans7sy.jpg

Your thread is getting jacked. lol

[2bad]

yeah... seems that way doesnt it?

[GetawayInMoscow]

http://www.kaitaia.com/funny/pictures/ThreadHijack/thread_direction.gif

[BlackMagic]

I think you are going way out from where you need to be. you dont need a "Stage 3" cam (whatever the hell that means. Stages are relative to the manufacturer not the product)

Sounds like you already have a decent intake so get a header and a 2.5 inch exhaust and see where the car is. Then start looking into the other aspects of power if you arent happy.

[MrVtec11]

wow, reid u are far mistaken... stage 3 is the shit yo!!! like the staged turbo kits... lmao jkjk...

[a1320honda]

For the money it would take to upgrade the valvetrain, cams a retune,and labor you could easily put together a beginner style turbo kit and make alot more power and be just as streetable. And if you do still decide to go the N/A route, i would HIGHLY recomend you uprade to a bottom end with more displacement. Alot more HP and TQ are gonna be gained by that and its a relativly simpe and cost effective procedure. Ive had a staright B16, b20, ls/vtec....just about most motor combos and by far in N/A form, the most powerful has been the ls/vtec. But still, just a B16 on 10psi of boost will be a decently fast car. My 12.1@118 was a very basic turbo setup on 10-11psi. just some food for thought.

[sr240]

my b16 is bone stock and it went 12.2 with slicks it could have easily hit 11s.. it has a turbo of course

[a1320honda]

no knocking ya, but explain how keeping a B16 bottom end keeps a jdm look, but a turbo setup wont lol?

[sr240]

i have quite a bit in my turbo setup.. i ran 12 psi all summer.. you can get into a decent kit for not much.. just get a ebay kit, some dsm 450s, and tune it on crome and it will haul ass..

[a1320honda]

Thats not too bad of a way to start. And then as you go along slowly upgrade piece by piece to better name brand stuff. Compared to what it would cost to pull the head, buy all the valve train, have competent machinist do the work and buy the cams, the power your gonna make off that turbo kit at 10psi is alot more. Ive actualy still got a B16 thats sitting on an engine stand that i got from Foreign Engines, that i shoved 18psi through and was fine till it blew a head gasket lol.

[GetawayInMoscow]

If you want to be JDM don't fuck it all up with some shitty ass ebay turbo kit, no one who is into rare and unique parts is going to have any respect for that...

If it was me I'd swap in a B18C (JDM ITR engine) and leave it and call it a day. 100% JDM motor, 100% OEM Honda reliability, 12's all day on slicks.

[MrVtec11]

as for the tranny, it depends on what you like... im sure if you would like longer gears there would be someone here willing to trade a B18(longer gears) for your B16... :)

[BlackMagic]

Milan drives a Corvette now...enough said.

The car is not authentic...its not JDM...its a USDM two door economy compact car which came from the factory with a 1.5L SOHC engine (maybe a 1.6). It will never be authentic..it will never be JDM. The sooner you come to that realization the better.

Now, the next question. Do you want to win shows or do you want to win races? If you want to win shows you need to concentrate on asthetics like interior, paint, and all the other little details. If you want to win races you need to spend the money on a nice turbo kit and a reliable engine build. So what if you want both? Sell the car because you dont have the budget to travel that road my friend. Believe me.

Quit worrying about what other people think about you and your car and build what you want. When you decide what that is...let us know.

[jrhaile]

Milan drives a Corvette now...enough said.

The car is not authentic...its not JDM...its a USDM two door economy compact car which came from the factory with a 1.5L SOHC engine (maybe a 1.6). It will never be authentic..it will never be JDM. The sooner you come to that realization the better.

Now, the next question. Do you want to win shows or do you want to win races? If you want to win shows you need to concentrate on asthetics like interior, paint, and all the other little details. If you want to win races you need to spend the money on a nice turbo kit and a reliable engine build. So what if you want both? Sell the car because you dont have the budget to travel that road my friend. Believe me.

Quit worrying about what other people think about you and your car and build what you want. When you decide what that is...let us know.


Yeah, what he said.. do you live your life a quarter mile at a time?

[GetawayInMoscow]

The faster you go, the more shit you will break, and the more in debt you will be.

I'm telling you from exeperience, the most fun I had with my Civic was when it was a stock JDM B16 and I used to race Steve in the CRX 20 times a night at FNSR.

If it was me, I would swap in a B18C or a K20, leave it completely stock internally, and call it a day.

You will have the absolute most fun with your car this way, it will start 100% of the time, everytime. There is almost no chance you will break something, and it will be plenty fast to waste unsuspecting fools on the street.

Honestly if you run say between a 12.5 and a 13.5 than you are in a tough place. You are either going to waste every car you come across, or they are going to hand you your ass like it's nobody's business, not really much in between.

Keep it simple and enjoy driving your car...fuck the FD approach to cars, I don't want to work on my shit all the time in order to drive it.

[Ryfly05]

Quit worrying about what other people think about you and your car and build what you want. When you decide what that is...let us know.

Thank you.

[GetawayInMoscow]

Just boost the b16 then and call it a day...use quality parts though, no ching chong meow bullshit

[Ninja_Bear]

...

Meow.

[Jetblack]

I think I'd rather him ask questions before the build than make a mistake that costs engines or costs him wins at the shows.

I think he wants a fast/show car. He wants to know about what turbos will not make it USDM. A turbo that he can run on the street for 100,000 miles and give it a little more oomph without turning the car into an eBayDM either.

Philip, I internet/sorta know a guy with a real JDM hookup. He's overseas but can get deep discounts. Your stuff will have to arrive on a pallet, to a business and I have no idea what shipping will cost for that. Might not be worth it. Pallets are cheaper than boxes so it might be worth it. Also a guy who can tune any Honda (really, not like Trevor "can tune" any DSM). He's not a little kid who tuned one car and thinks he's the shit.

[sr240]

hey i heard youre jdm so i put som jdm in your jdm so you can be jdm while youre jdming.

[2bad]

I'd reather learn from previous mistakes and do a lot of research before throwing tons of money into something that wouldnt work. It gets tons of comments on how clean it is.. but to have a car that looks like it has money in it, but is slow as heck.. doesnt make sense to me. It doesnt have to be so fast you crap yourself when you ride in it, just not so slow a stock si could whoop it.

[HPI Performance]

boost is the only way to go, NA power is expensive to build an maintain IMO, Not to say FI isn't expensive but i only know of one built NA car in town and thats Justin with the blue integra. He has a ton of money in it and didn't break 13's. I'm not saying that NA cant put down good numbers but ask almost anyone boost is a lot more fun and efficient and the nice thing about turbo is that once you put together a turbo kit. as long as you use decent parts you can have fun with a stock engine for a while and run low boost. then build the motor later and turn it up. You turbo it now with good parts or even eBay shit, who cares if its not name brand as Steve always says (function over form) if it does the job then use it until you are in a position to afford better. My CRX had a cheap ass eBay inter cooler, turbo, manifold. the car ran 11.80's and put down 333 HP @15 psi. It was fun and i enjoyed it. Done deal!!!! im all for using good parts if you have the cash to do so. but i also have a lot of respect for people who make due with what they got. look at Steve he has done amazing things with parts that some people would consider cheap and not name brand. I know your car is clean and RHD but were in Spokane and not many people will really appreciate what you have and that shouldn't be your goal. It took me a long time to realize that if you build your car to attempt to impress other people, you will NEVER be happy. you will always find someone who puts you down. the only way you will really enjoy your car is if you build it for you. The people you impress along the way is just a bonus. so if you can only afford eBay stuff right now then i would say do it and have fun with it. Just make sure you assemble everything correct. like using a oil restriction plate on the eBay turbo and doing the oil return line properly. i have done many of these kits for people on a budget and if done right theres nothing wrong with them for a 350 HP range goal. I know everyone has there own experiences with products but i have only seen one of the eBay t3/t4's fail and it was due to a kinked return line. If you have the money to turbo it with cheaper stuff you should do it IMO. you will have fun with it and learn a lot from it. no offense but you go through cars like crazy, and im the same way! yes on paper using a Greddy turbo would make it worth more, but in this day and age you will not get what you put into it in most cases. Go for the cheaper option, do it right and CLEAN and you should be happy. I am more than happy to help you with the information you will need. and as for chipping the computer let me know i can do that as well. One last piece of advise on taking advise...you can find 100,000,000's of people who will tell you what they think they know. you can find 10,000 different views and opinions on the same question. You can drive yourself CRAZY trying to sort through the truth and the BS. take your advise from people that have actually done what they are talking about. Example: Steve (a1320honda) is one of your best bets on advise as well as (blackmagic) (SR240) and myself. we have been there and done it. don't follow everything you read on the forums. half of it is truth and the other half is people arguing about who is right. You own a very popular vehicle which comes with a large group of enthusiasts, you are going to encounter many people putting you down and many giving you props. Just do what feels right!!!

LOL sorry just felt like typing.

[yay]

IMO tryin to do the "SIR Replica" is a waste of money and gay!!! when it comes back down to it... its still just a knock off....

[sweetcivic2005]

I have a 95 REAL SIR 2 and its boosted.. im tired of all these fools doing these conversions.. ill be at the shows and i just bought a 10 sec race car and put the swap in.. i got a gt40r with a built gsr should be some fun :) .. ill keep everyone updadted with pics.. and i just bought a built k20r for my honda type r :).. sick car tho just get some rims i got a 5 lug for sale thats what you need :)


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b122/loserboy05/ddddddddddd.jpg

[GetawayInMoscow]

Who cares if it's real or fake...why the fuck would you want a RHD ECONOBOX when you have the option of having a LHD? It really blows my mind...I mean atleast with the Skyline they never made it in a LHD model so you can make an argument.

Sweet civic...tell me you have no interior in your car...it will seriously make my day.

[GetawayInMoscow]

boost is the only way to go, NA power is expensive to build an maintain IMO, Not to say FI isn't expensive but i only know of one built NA car in town and thats Justin with the blue integra. He has a ton of money in it and didn't break 13's. I'm not saying that NA cant put down good numbers but ask almost anyone boost is a lot more fun and efficient

Wow, way to use the gayest NA Honda in the world as an example why not to go NA.

A 230whp+ B/H/K series is going to be a lot of fun and will still put the hurt on any sub 400whp turbo Honda out there. I've done both, and I liked turbo more, but only because I didn't have the means to build an NA car like I wanted to (K swap was out of my price range).

NA Hondas can be extremely fast down the drag strip, they will feel a lot faster to the average person, and will be a lot easier and more fun to drive at a road course or auto-x event.

Turbo is the way to go for an all out drag car, but I think it's a hell of a lot easier to swap in a K-series and call it a day with 100% OEM reliability.

If cost is an issue than pick up an H22 and do H2B...just about every H2B I've seen is in the 12's no problem and 11's shouldn't be too far away if you get the right slicks and the weight of the car down.

[yay]

why the fuck would you want a RHD ECONOBOX when you have the option of having a LHD? It really blows my mind...I mean atleast with the Skyline they never made it in a LHD model so you can make an argument.

i agree...the whole RHD thing is like the new fad for all the rice boys...have fun turning left at intersections...lol... oh and milan...they actualy do have LHD Skylines in certain parts of Europe... hehe...
I have a 95 REAL SIR 2 and its boosted.. im tired of all these fools doing these conversions.. ill be at the shows and i just bought a 10 sec race car and put the swap in.. i got a gt40r with a built gsr should be some fun :) .. ill keep everyone updadted with pics.. and i just bought a built k20r for my honda type r :).. sick car tho just get some rims i got a 5 lug for sale thats what you need :)


http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b122/loserboy05/ddddddddddd.jpg

is this Josh hastings old setup?

[HPI Performance]

Wow, way to use the gayest NA Honda in the world as an example why not to go NA.

A 230whp+ B/H/K series is going to be a lot of fun and will still put the hurt on any sub 400whp turbo Honda out there. I've done both, and I liked turbo more, but only because I didn't have the means to build an NA car like I wanted to (K swap was out of my price range).

NA Hondas can be extremely fast down the drag strip, they will feel a lot faster to the average person, and will be a lot easier and more fun to drive at a road course or auto-x event.

Turbo is the way to go for an all out drag car, but I think it's a hell of a lot easier to swap in a K-series and call it a day with 100% OEM reliability.

If cost is an issue than pick up an H22 and do H2B...just about every H2B I've seen is in the 12's no problem and 11's shouldn't be too far away if you get the right slicks and the weight of the car down.


lol yeah i knew that was coming, like i said NA can be fast...i never said it couldn't be. just for the money IMO boost does a better job. it all depends on your goals!!!


Example..

you already own the car...

option 1..
swap a k series or h22

k series... min cost (est) $3500-4000

H22 swap... min cost (est) $2000-3000

Yes all motor it will put down good numbers.

option 2...

turbo

cheap route (ebay)

cost $ 1300-1500

expensive route (name brand)

cost $4000-6000


.....it all depends on what you want...

there's no right answer here, every option has its pro's and con's so you gotta pick one and live with it and learn from it. and i was also talking about NA not being the best option from a fully built standpoint. from a stock standpoint choosing NA and FI should be based on your goals and use of the vehicle. I know i would never spend the money building a high compression fully built NA car VS a fully built boosted car. of course this is just my opinion nobody is trying to start an argument here.:stupid: LOL :D

[sr240]

i dnt think that that is josh hastings setup.. cuz he had individaul coil packs on the firewall..

[rrussell]

N/A is just a expensive way to go slow...

[a1320honda]

This thread id getting dumber by the post! you guys are arguing over nothing, cause most likely.....no offense to the original poster, but hes prolly gonna sell the car or trade it off before anything happens anyway. Weve all givin him the different routes and approx build cost for each. Its up to him to choose. If theres on piece of advice i can give, BUILD IT YOURSELF!! Dont buy someone elses stuff. Youll never really appreciate it the way you should if you did it yourself. Im not sayin you need to tear your motor apart and build it in your garage, but be sure your choosing the parts you feel are gonna work best for you. Dont buy someone elses setup and just plop it in. Even though he doesnt drive it anymore, i appreciate Josh Hastings build just for the fact he did his research and took his time putting together his car. It took him a bit of time and alot of money, but he prolly has about the potentialy fastest honda in town besides Reid.

Bottom line, you need to figure out what your goals for your car are, and go that way. As in the past, you come on here and ask what you should do, people tell you, and you dont listen to any of it. I see this thread heading towards the firepit before too long just cause its goin no where!

[2bad]

I have listened to a LOT of what people said. Mostly the postive things, and i appreciate it. I dont want to argue about what people like my car and who doesnt. I dont want to argue about who thinks i'll sell it and who thinks i wont. Its staying. Its getting turbo'ed, and when I bust the bottom end its going LS-Vtec. Its getting quality products, and i'm building it myself, and i'll probably take it to HPI for tuning, because from everyone i've talked to and from his Del Sol he built, I'd definatly trust it. End of post. No reason to argue any more. Car is set on how its going to be built, Owner is happy in the direction the car is going and informed. So no reason to keep this thread going in all honesty. Durring the build if I need any more info i'll make a new thread but I'm tired of weeding through the mostly good info, with all the arguing aswell. Thank you, HPI, A1320, sr240, blackmagic, etc. for the info.